The Rise and Fall of Brewing: Beer, Naiveté, and Recovered Integrity
Tuesday, November 30th, 2010I just found a couple of old letters, written as letters to the editor of the magazine Zymurgy. Here they are, representing a heady time in my life and a heady time in the early micro-brewing industry. Read them both, first the 10/8/1995 letter and then the 5/20/1996 letter:
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October 8, 1995
Letters to the Editor
Zymurgy Magazine
American Homebrewers Association
P.O. Box 1679
Boulder, CO 80306-1679
Dear Editor:
I would like to thank you for publishing, and Bill Holmes for writing, the article appearing in the Zymurgy Special 1995 issue (The Great Grain Issue). I am writing to follow up on the article about Dave West’s and my own techniques for full grain mashing. At the time I brewed my Bohemian Pilsner, I was brewing 5-gallon batches. By the time the article was written, I was brewing 10- to 15-gallon batches using the Pico-Brewing System that Dave West and Mike O’Brian produce.
Of late, I continue to brew with only grain, but have graduated to brewing in larger quantities. The article mentions that I was considering investing in a pH meter for better brew monitoring. I am happy to report that my new employer has supplied me with a pH meter for use in brewing. In fact, the pH meter comes complete with a 15-barrel brewing system along with two 15-barrel fermenters, one 30-barrel fermenter, six 15-barrel serving tanks and all concomitant equipment. My recipes now call for something on the order of 1000 lbs of grain per batch.
I would like to thank you once again for the article and would like to let your readers know that seven years of serious, full-grain, scientifically oriented homebrewing can, in fact, lead to an exciting new career.
Sincerely,
Alan Pagliere
Head Brewer
Blue Coyote Brewing Company
Lansing, Michigan
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Letters to the Editor
Zymurgy Magazine
American Homebrewers Association
P.O. Box 1679
Boulder, CO 80306-1679
Dear Editor:
This letter is a follow up to one I wrote back in October of 1995, (appearing in the Summer, 1996 issue of Zymurgy) in which I revealed the fact that I had “graduated” from homebrewing to professional brewing. Reading it was bittersweet now that I have left the world of professional brewing, after a mere eight months.
Why, an envious homebrewer might ask, did I leave so soon after entering that world? There are several reasons, but I know that one of the highest on the list had to do with the realization that I am unable to ride out the sad trend in brewing I have become aware of.
There are many wonderful micros and brewpubs in the US that are truly dedicated to maintaining the history, tradition, and quality of beer. However, there are some that are merely cash production facilities. The people who put together these “projects” have no love of beer, rather they simply have and love money. Just five to seven years ago, many of those who started up micros and brewpubs were brewers. These days, they are entrepreneurs. They, in turn, hire a brewer like they hire a waiter, someone whose expertise can be overridden by the dollar when it benefits the beer ignorant entrepreneur.
I am sad to say that that is what happened to me. I blame myself for being naive enough early on to ignore the signs. I enjoyed brewing very much, but eventually the compromises to the integrity of the beer and to my own were so great that I had to leave. I could say that I was just unlucky and that it was only my specific circumstances that have soured my outlook on the fate of the so-called “craft-brewing” industry. However, I believe, from what I have seen of late of the kinds of people rushing into the industry, that the next five years will see a lot of brewpubs that care much more about money than about beer and the people who support its craft.
Clearly, there will be a shakeout and we can only hope that those interested in quality will be the ones to survive. That happy day will be a few years in the future and, at the point in life I find myself now, I can not afford to wait. I have returned to my previous career. I suggest that new, younger, brewers may be able to stick it out, assuming they do not fall into the trap (set by business people not merely ignorant of beer but, worse, with no interest in acquiring knowledge or appreciation of it) of beer for money’s sake above everything else.
In conclusion, I would like to thank you once again for printing my previous letter, written with all the enthusiasm of a homebrewer who had the opportunity to go professional. I would also like to urge all those who are or long to be in the same position, first, to be careful of who it is you might work for, and second, whether brewing professionally or not, to hold on to your brewing integrity. Brew to the standard of quality, educate everyone you can, stick with the old traditions at the very same time you are creating new ones. Good luck.
Sincerely,
Alan Pagliere
ex-Head Brewer